Remove your existing toilet.
Drain the pond.
Close the stopcock (also known as a key-ring) so that no
more water flows.
If there is no stopcock for the pond, or if you want to change, close the
general water tap and open some water faucets in other rooms
to drain the entire system.
Remove the toilet chain so that the water flows into the bowl. No
more water should enter the pond.
Put a bucket to receive the water and unscrew the existing flexible of the stopcock.
Remove the anchor bolts from the bowl.
Remove the pond from the bowl. This is not essential but makes it easier to move.
If the nut is rusty and very tight, apply WD40 or similar product
to loosen it.
The toilets are heavy, take care of your back when you lift it and move it.
Always try to use the same existing drainage on the floor; Changing the position is complicated and quite time consuming, and if the house has a single bathroom, it can be a real problem.
A change of drainage usually means more than a couple of days of work: to break raders or slabs, to cut existing pipes, to put a new section of pipe, to empty concrete again to close, etc.
Present the cup with your pond and mark on the floor the location of the holes for the new bolts.
If the location coincides with the previous ones, remove the old dowels and inlay some new ones. Now, open the new one.
If the holes do not match, these holes should be filled with cement.
Once dry, drill two new holes with a ceramic drill.
Insert new plastic billets.
Cup Position To ensure that the cup outlet hole is perfectly centered in the drain hose, do the following:
1. Once the old bowl is removed, mark the drain tube shafts on the floor.
2. Place the bowl down again and mark the axes on the base, extending them
on the side faces.
3. Position the new cup by matching the axes marked on it with the strokes of the floor.
4. Mark the outline of the piece on the floor and remove it. 3Fit the wax ring
Put the cup, without the pond, legs up (inverted) and carefully supported on a cardboard so that it does not scratch.
Remove the covering from the wax ring.
Snap it firmly into the bowl drain.
Sometimes ceramics on the floor are not well leveled.
If this happens, put plenty of silicone on the edge of the toilet base. This will help level the position once it is in place.
Turn the bowl carefully and lower it until the wax ring is perfectly aligned with the floor drain.
Press firmly into position.
Clean the silicon that comes off by pushing the cup against the floor.
Screw the locking bolts with their respective seals.
Screw the float to the metal rod.
Insert the bar into the top of the valve and tighten in its screwed position.
Insert the valve into the appropriate hole in the tank, make sure it has the seal in place.
Make sure that the float is separated from the walls of the pond.
With a pelican wrench secure the fixing nut. Do not over tighten the account.
6Insert the discharge valve
Insert the discharge valve into the central hole of the tank and with the fixing nut, secure it at the bottom.
The vertical overflow pipe must be oriented towards the inlet valve.
The upper edge of the overflow pipe must be at least 13 mms below the level of the hole for the handle.
Take care not to obstruct the positioning of the two coupling bolts, nor the float bar.
Attach the coupling seal to the threaded end of the discharge valve making sure to leave the tapered side down and the two pin holes aligned.
Install the pond on the bowl and match the bore holes.
Place the flat rubber washers on the bolts.
Insert them into the holes of the pond by placing the metal grommets and the nuts from below.
Tighten the nut by hand, then hold it in position with a French wrench and tighten from the top with a screwdriver.
If you followed our instructions you should have no problem with the installation but if you have any issues then refer to the video.